A short menu, because the market is honest.
Twelve tables, an open kitchen and a list that changes on Tuesdays. We cook what came in good this week and we tell you what it is.
Five starters, five mains, two puddings. That is the whole thing.
A long menu means a big freezer. Ours is short because everything on it was bought this week, by one of us, from people we can name. If the halibut was not right on Monday it is not on the board on Tuesday, and we would rather explain that than serve it.
Lunch, dinner, or a stool at the pass
Same kitchen, three different evenings. The counter is the one people come back for.
Lunch
Two or three courses, in and out inside the hour if you need to be. Thursday and Friday only, twelve until two.
Dinner
The full board, Tuesday to Saturday from six. Last orders at nine, and nobody will rush you off the table afterwards.
The counter
Six stools facing the pass. You get whatever the kitchen is most pleased with, course by course, and a running commentary.
What has been on the board lately
Photographed on the day, which is why some of it looks like a Tuesday.
Brill, brown butter
While it lasts.
Bread
Baked here, daily.
Lamb shoulder
For two, off the bone.
Tuesday market
Where the board starts.
Service
Seven o’clock, every night.
Tatin
It never comes off.
Mostly to our faces, which we prefer
I asked what was good and was told, plainly, that the lamb was better than the duck that night. It was. I have never been steered wrong here.
Booked the counter for my father's birthday without telling him. He talked to the chef for two hours and has since bought a fish kettle.
Small menu, no theatre, everything on the plate earns its place. This is the restaurant I send people to when they want to be looked after.